cracengl
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I've heard that. I meant to do it, I just forgot. They love the sulfur in the matches. And sulfur helps with fruiting.
Some Like it Hot!!!
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Interesting. I suppose a match has both Potassium and Sulfur so that makes some sense. Never would have thought of that. And you can get books of matches for free at just about any gas station. Bonus.
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BTW. A little update on the latest extract - Yawn. Chinese Red Pepper - though fairly hot carries no where near the heat level as the Jolokia. I would call this particular experiment a fail. It's still fairly hot but not even close to my Jolokia extract. Damn!
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Maybe use Thai peppers next time? Just a thought. I didn't grow any this year, but did last year. Rhody can attest to that. If you want something with a little less heat than the Jolokia's, I would suggest Caribbean Reads (a notch above a hab) and/or Super Chili's. I've had good luck with both.
I'll weigh in on this thread more in the future, but I got ripped off on many of my scorpion's, ghosts, and Carolina's this year. Pepper's were hot but not originals. I got one Carolina late that was real. I got it so late that all I got out of it were enough pods for seeds.
Love the thread 503, and hope we can keep it going.
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Yeah - I use a lot of peppers. This was just a test to see if I could get something even close to my Jolokia extract with the same process. Dry, ground Jolokia costs me about $80 per pound if I buy it by the kilo. Just seeing if I could do something that wouldn't cost as much. The problem is that I still end up with too many other compounds from the peppers in addition to the capsaicinoids. It looks very similar but the percentage of capsaicin in Jolokia is just so much higher.
It takes about 12 oz of Jolokia to make about 6 oz of extract. When you add in the cost of the grain alcohol, the cost is about $15 per ounce not counting my time. That little bit goes a very long way but still a bit too expensive to use in a sauce to sell. Just no profit there.
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I'm no expert here, but the capsaicins come from the internal fiber and seeds the most. Maybe you're getting the other compounds from the exterior pod? Also, not sure who you're purchasing the powder (ground pepper) from, but you might want to be aware of cross pollination. It can weaken a pepper. It'll make them produce more, but.. For example, I keep my hungarians used for poppers and pickling) very far away from even caribbean reds. I could be wrong though. I'm thinking this is why the plants I got this year were bad. They had cross pollination?
That said, I have 5 times the land going into next year. I will keep all peppers separate. Hopefully I'll have at least a 1/2 acre of Carolinas and same with Ghosts. I'm partnering with 2 others on the land.
Like I said above, I'm no expert and still learning. Love to see threads like this though. Never seen an idea like yours before. I just pickle and make powder. It's always cool learning though.
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Yeah - the Chinese red pepper seems to be all pulp. I just bought a one pound package at the local Asian food market to try it. The Jolokia I get from an importer through my food purveyor. It's plenty hot.
A little update. The extract made with the Chinese red pepper is now down to about a tenth of its original volume and is getting quite hot. Still only about half as hot as the Jolokia but definitely getting there. I'm looking into methods to recapture the alcohol so I can re-use it. No sense in just letting it evaporate away. Besides, if I can recapture it, it should be safer than having alcohol vapors in the same room as about 15 pilot lights and a bunch of burners.
It's funny because some of the best articles on how to do some of this are on how to make Honey Oil. So I suppose if I can capture Capsaicin, I can do that as well.
LesBaker
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Lard works best!So when you were a kid you used Shortnin' instead of KY
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So when you were a kid you used Shortnin' instead of KY
Not sure I'm liking the way you two are derailing this thread. I feel somehow queasy all of the sudden.
Boffo97
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Better not. That stuff is the schiznits. Use that gawd awful lemon custard crap that Dunkin Donuts fills their dough with if you are going to go there. Besides - it kind of looks like the after effect they are after anyway.At least they're not using lemon jelly....
Great thread...
My reapers are still in the adolescent stage and with the night time temps dropping I dont expect much from them this winter.
My reapers are still in the adolescent stage and with the night time temps dropping I dont expect much from them this winter.
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Do you actually get pepper plants to bud this time of year? In my experience, most flowering/fruiting plants should be started in the early spring or at least after day light periods start to get longer - unless you are supplementing with artificial light that is. I have to admit though, I haven't done a lot of pepper growing except in my garden in the NW.
Typically though, a flowering/fruiting plant (not including tomatoes) will start to set buds as the daylight periods get shorter. In college, we forced budding in greenhouses by manipulating the dark periods. So we would give plants artificial light to mimic spring and summer if we were starting them in the fall and then reduce that light as time went on to mimic fall coming in. That way we were able to create two growing seasons per year. That was in Northern California at Chico State.
In the south, I don't know how much difference you have in dark periods throughout the seasons but I would think there would be enough to tell the plants when they are supposed to be setting fruit. Temperatures shouldn't have as much to do with this as the length of dark periods per day. I'm sure the warmer weather would have a good amount to do with the quality of the fruit and health of the plant though. the biggest problem we have here is the warm period is just too short for good fruit production. We get a lot of little peppers that don't quite ripen.
I'm not sure if peppers are like tomatoes. Tomatoes set fruit as the plant matures and not due to season. So this could all be totally useless information. Oh well - wouldn't be the first time.
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Might have to try some extract using them. I like their flavor. Heat isn't everything but they have a good punch to them.
Do you actually get pepper plants to bud this time of year? In my experience, most flowering/fruiting plants should be started in the early spring or at least after day light periods start to get longer - unless you are supplementing with artificial light that is. I have to admit though, I haven't done a lot of pepper growing except in my garden in the NW.
Typically though, a flowering/fruiting plant (not including tomatoes) will start to set buds as the daylight periods get shorter. In college, we forced budding in greenhouses by manipulating the dark periods. So we would give plants artificial light to mimic spring and summer if we were starting them in the fall and then reduce that light as time went on to mimic fall coming in. That way we were able to create two growing seasons per year. That was in Northern California at Chico State.
In the south, I don't know how much difference you have in dark periods throughout the seasons but I would think there would be enough to tell the plants when they are supposed to be setting fruit. Temperatures shouldn't have as much to do with this as the length of dark periods per day. I'm sure the warmer weather would have a good amount to do with the quality of the fruit and health of the plant though. the biggest problem we have here is the warm period is just too short for good fruit production. We get a lot of little peppers that don't quite ripen.
I'm not sure if peppers are like tomatoes. Tomatoes set fruit as the plant matures and not due to season. So this could all be totally useless information. Oh well - wouldn't be the first time.
My habaneros and jalapenos are still flowering even now. I did turn off their watering cycle to once a day because I was starting to worry about rot.
Do you actually get pepper plants to bud this time of year? In my experience, most flowering/fruiting plants should be started in the early spring or at least after day light periods start to get longer - unless you are supplementing with artificial light that is. I have to admit though, I haven't done a lot of pepper growing except in my garden in the NW.
Typically though, a flowering/fruiting plant (not including tomatoes) will start to set buds as the daylight periods get shorter. In college, we forced budding in greenhouses by manipulating the dark periods. So we would give plants artificial light to mimic spring and summer if we were starting them in the fall and then reduce that light as time went on to mimic fall coming in. That way we were able to create two growing seasons per year. That was in Northern California at Chico State.
In the south, I don't know how much difference you have in dark periods throughout the seasons but I would think there would be enough to tell the plants when they are supposed to be setting fruit. Temperatures shouldn't have as much to do with this as the length of dark periods per day. I'm sure the warmer weather would have a good amount to do with the quality of the fruit and health of the plant though. the biggest problem we have here is the warm period is just too short for good fruit production. We get a lot of little peppers that don't quite ripen.
I'm not sure if peppers are like tomatoes. Tomatoes set fruit as the plant matures and not due to season. So this could all be totally useless information. Oh well - wouldn't be the first time.
A side note..
I get about 5-6 pickings of my plants per year. Particularly the jalepeno. I will strip the plant and within a few weeks it is filled back in with a new batch.
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So do they grow like perennials there? That is just wild to think about here. We are lucky to get one picking and generally those are like one or two real decent peppers per plant. Obviously not pepper country around here.